if the war engine has the “ignores obscured” (which most do) he could shoot the taller unit hiding the chaff without penalty. but most other shooting, and lightning bolts would suffer cover.
haha thats right XD, lol… allready forgot about that. Will definitively need to get an overview of what warmachines that ignores obscured, as it would be totally meaningless to do it against those. - tnx for correcting my reasoning. I had allready totally forgoen.
Anyhow, what Im currently pondering, is what I for my own sake just gonna label “slingshoting” vs enemy warmachines. - we are back to the outpost thingy using mounted scouts as a one turn barrier to shield the Winged Beast before it charges into warmachines on turn 2.
Its interesting to me, to notice how once again, how “powerful” such a screening unit is, in comparison to warhammer - yeah I know - Im gonna keep refferring back to that, as its equally important for me to uninstall old thinking patterns, as it is to install the new ones.
Just the fact that NO matter how much you shoot at that screening unit, it simply will not go down until the nerve test at the end of the shooting phase… This is just - insane value, compared to warhammer, where it would “cease to be” in pretty much an instant, and - would only be one of several reasons why a manouvre like this just never was feasible at all in that system.
So my Winged Beast, and Scouts, will be clumped togheter, and stored mentally in my brain as a “slinghshot” gambit vs enemy warmachines. - Ideally they clump them up, as I’ve seen some dwarf players do with their organ guns.
Im also thinking I might want to mentally prepare some Captain redeployment shenaningans for this scenario. D3 is nice and all, but I will only ever count on the 1 redeployment.
And I think definitively planning to use it to get the uppper hand in the wingded beast vs enemy warmachines, might be a good one, to use it on.
This is one of the core principles of KoW tactical play. When to sacrifice a screening unit (also called “chaff”) and when to keep it for another turn. This is one of the main reasons why the number of drops is so important in Kings.
This has always been my choice too. Knight hordes get tangled into terrain quite often and the difference between hitting on fours with TC (1) and a full hit is quite large. Sadly, the potion of pathfinder is no more, which makes me revaluate the horde.
Actually, if I run this army again in 2023, I might switch over to Order of the Green lady, as they still have the pathfinder upgrade AND their knights got a lot cheaper in the last upgrade. The core of the army (knights, generals on winged beast, hero-on-pegasus chaff) has counterparts in the Green Lady list, so the transition is fairly easy.
The new beasts of nature are very viable on foot these days, so the generals on winged beast may also be changed into either version of the beast.
What??? F***
Our community stopped at CoK21. No one wanted to buy the red book.
I haven’t bought it either but I did get the new mantic companion subscription, and when making armies there it will be updated with all the currect magical artifacts. If you can’t see it anymore, then assume it was removed, either permanently or for a “season”.
Here is an example of a knight heavy list that finished top 10 in last years uk Clash of Kings.
Most of the normal heavy cavalry units (TC2, no crushing) got a slight points drop in the big red book.
Alternatively give it Sharpness and it doesn’t care about running through forests!
The Captain is decent, even without the redeploy trick - that itself works best with heavy hitter units, esp if very different.
So I’d run knight horde with sharpness and a pike horde with measured force. Stick the former down first drop - if enemy counters it (faster cav/flyers etc) just move it, and if you get a good enough roll replace it with the pikes!
Yes, the captain is always good for a surprise!
I like the way you think…
I’ts “funny” to me why slingshoting a Winged Beast into warmachines throwing away 110 pts of mounted scouts in the process is way superior to 90 pts hero on pegasuss. The way I see it, the warmachine is worth those 100 pts anyways, and you get your winged beast truly into the rear ranks of the enemy.
And who would “really” care about being rear charged by a hero on pegasuss with this whopping 9 cs 1 attacks?
Not a whole lot of units I reccon.
21 3+ 2+ though… and you start feeling uncomfortable.
And warmachines are such a juicy target because its honestly probably double ones that will screw you over. He should get an easy reform to target enemy flank/rear.
Pretty much, this will “always” be my game plan with the winged beast. as getting him into the enemy rear sounds like a great idea to me. - and most other stuff, would only get him stuck - so warmachines is where Im aiming him - scouts is what I’ll use to get him there, and enemy rears is my main objective. - how my opponents will respond I have NO idea as of yet haha, I need actual games for that XD.
The “funny” part is of course, he would have to use an extra turn to - turn, if you dont have access to enemy warmachines. XD
Really depends if enemy has any sort of reliable flyer counter - plus what the war machines are!
Anti flyer tactics mainly resolve around grounding you (doing damage in combat/waver) and then hitting you with better stuff next turn; hitting you with quicker stuff or denying you safe landing spots.
Also, even with triple attacks WM aren’t necessarily as squishy as everyone assumes, esp if covered by inspiring. You ideally need 5+ attacks on 3s with cs1 to reliably kill an inspired cannon etc
The Hero and the General have different functions - like you noticed, the 3 attacks of the peggy are not gonna do much even in the rear (except on warmachines, goblin wizards, and other extremely squishy stuff). The pegasus is not for killing things, but it is the ultimate chaff: 20 inch nimble move, flying, and height 5 means you can block any and every thing under the sun if you position well. Mine always die by turn three, which I should be more careful about, but it does mean the enemy’s main hammer unit gets two regiments of elite knights to the face in my next turn, hopefully.
The General (or at least it’s Green Lady equivalent) is meant to flank-and-rear-charge. Note that even with a flank, a single General probably still won’t kill most things (and with a rear it’s still not a done deal); ideally, you want something else, like a regiment of knights, charging the front. Also, they’re good for cleaning up the berserker troops (you know, low armour, fifteen attacks and CS on an infantry troop) that some people like to hide behind the front lines to exact terrrible retribution when you kill their main line.
Or at least, that’s my theory-crafting on the basis of what I do with Green Lady…
I made som Wavered markers, and started on some new movement trays.
And its actually just silly how happy I get when I make new movementtrays. Not all that long ago, I threw away my old ikea tv rack, and I decided to just keep the “wooden backside” just in case I could find some uses for it in the future. And that future has arrived, its just pretty darn perfect for making trays! And for the sides, Im using wooden barbeque sticks.- the end of that stick is the bit you see me using as a Wavered token, and then its straight and square for a long while before getting pointy - just perfect in other words.
Equal to my joy of having made nice movement trays though, is my annoyance at the fact that I don’t really want to use them at all in Kings of War. I would much rather have perfectly square unit bases in the correct size, with little dioramas on them. But seeing how most of my army is on individual bases, - movement trays just makes the most sense at this point.
That’s true and it’s how I started too. Word of warning: once you get started on multibasing, there’s no way back as it’s so much fun to do!
I posted about the rebasing of my foot guard horde unto a multibase. See here!
I knew perfectly well what it was I was supposed to do.
I remembered it when I sawed of a chunk to make trays for the Gryphon Knights/Beast Cav.
Then for a moment, I just stared at the piece… blinked a few times…plopped my unit down, drew som lines,
And for a second or two, I was Impressed with my two new trays before realizing… oh… THATS right… I was supposed to make it 150 x 100mm…doh
And Im still thinking about how to go about woundmarkers. And I’m even trying to figure out what it is, that makes me “unhappy” about just using small dice trays (3) for it. I am suspecting, this might be what I end up doing, but like I said - Im not HAPPY with it XD. I even think I know why. - I think its how you need to turn, the dice, - “looking for the right side” when you add wounds that annoys me.
If I got two more wounds, I should be able to just add two more - I dont like the - the dice is now showing 3 - lets turn it around and find 5.
What the dice approach does “rigth” is utilizing most of the space used, to display the actual number of wounds.
Most of the Round Dial stuff I’ve seen fails with regards to this… the “thing” itself uses up significant board space, and only manages to use a tiny portion of it to dispaly the numbers, - making it hard to easily read. - in addition they are view angle “unfriendly”
What I think a wound marker ought to do, is let you “add” without having to “search” and also show the actuall Nerve Stats. - a linear Line, with markings, would solve this.
And I will probably mess around with a few, before setteling on the dice.
Im even considering making some nice custom stuff with clearly visible wound lines for the units for my Remarkable. E ink, is nice because it never “turns off” or dims - its just like a piece of paper - and it removes the “problems” normal paper has, - as in, its really no trouble to simply go back and forth - erasing wounds would be just as simple as adding. And of course, the wounds are all on a separate layer, so after the game, just wipe it all, and your ready for a new one.
Hm… I need to see if I could get my hands on some of those TINY “books” mostly used as flashcards to learn new words N stuff with!
They are often “hinged” in a way where you can easily put the pages in front, in the back - so… why not just easily mark the pages with LARGE nice letters? Imagine a TINY book, but with the entire page, reading 01, next 02 etc. then when you get to the Wavered, you can add a new color to the page, to easily show wavered is reached.
Of the gazillion things Ive been thinking about, this must surely be among the better ideas I’ve come up with.
Ha ha! Butchered a spine book, to make a prototype. - and yeah, this will work for sure!
Numbers for illustrative purposes only XD
Oh I am so with you…
That is a BRILLIANT idea!
Yeah, Im very happy with the tiny book approach, - and I’ll make those for my army prior to the tournament.
I’ll also mention another idea that was floating around in my head.
There is a “lego” trend in the DIY community surrounding the product Sugru - where people combine lego, and sugru to “connect” all kinds of stuff. Sugru is pretty much just like greenstuff, but does not need to be mixed, it reacts with the air, and forms into a solid over the night resulting in a pretty firm rubber that also sticks to most surfaces. Anyhow, this is partly a digression, but I think its worth mentioning, where the inspiration probably came from - and this would be it. So, Im not “done” with mulling over this idea, becasue there are many ways you could go about it, and Im still not sure, wich one the cleanest.
But the idea is basically to use lego “strips” and a simple counting system. And this could both be made into a little counting gizmo, or just embedded nicely into the movementtray/base of the unit. So, what Id do, is file away the tiny lego logos on top of the “nobs”, and Id make sure to paint, and drybrush the strip as the very last thing Id like people to think is - oh thats a piece of lego. But with a bit of work, I think it could very nicely be “worked” into the movement tray. And the nice thing, a short one of lets say 5-6 used for “counting” and another one for counting how many times you “collected” 5 dmg. This way a short strip, and two markers would be all you need to easily keep track of how much dmg the unit has taken. And Id make sure to hide the lego part of the markers. It could very well be made to look very “this is a marker” thingy , but I really would not want the lego association to enter your mind.
I think the “tactile” experience of adding wounds with these would be somewhat pleasing.
Nope… don’t think lego will work at all in real life. Even though it looked promising in my head.
Getting rid of the “lego look” will be really hard, and I thnk the pieces stick to well on normal lego, meaning you would have to keep your movementtray down to “lift your marker”. This is obviously far from perfect XD.
The idea of a counting strip, and a dmg pool though I think still have some merit to it. - gonna keep thinking.